Vr4 boost controller install

Be advised that you can run these turbos the 13 or15 as you would your old 9b ones for now but you will not realize any higher potentials they have until you add in more fuel. Adding in more fuel bigger injectors is a big step in budgeting.

But don't go too big on your turbos only to fall flat. You want to match up the turbos with your expected goals and fuel system plans too. Lastly, make sure and get the full warranty info on your turbos. Most ALL turbo retailers will require you install brand new oil feed lines for the warranty. If not they may not honor the warranty.

So ask before you buy what the warranty covers and requires before you buy them. Nor to address all options out there. It is for beginning people wanting to understand the basics of performance modifications. Things change each year and new things are produced and applied. I'm not going to elaborate here about the different turbos other than as above already. It is a lengthy topic and also depends on your other factors such as goals, fuel, street or race or both or First decision is size ie - manifold mounting being TD04 TD05 or even bigger like a single or custom.

A fast bolt on to your car is TD04 9b, 13, 15g, etc. If you want larger like 16 then those are TD05 and require all different manifolds in order to use them read - add into the cost of the turbos. This is a bried section on turbos. OK, we talked about plug wires earlier. Now the ignition system itself. The stock coil packs are very good. All but the heaviest mod'd needs to change out the stock coils, but if you want to there is the MSD system that has been used by quite a few owners in the higher HP ranges.

I am not going to go into detail on the MSD change as that is more complicated than we want to get here. So the coil pack is good for most. Wires depends on your application and goals see page 2. If you are going to be turning up the boost on your engine then you may want to at least move the plug gap a little closer.

The other option is to install an ignition amplifier. It is a terrific performer and I've never heard anything bad on them at all. They are pretty easy to install and will give your ignition one heck of a bump so forget about changing your gap, you can keep it up there. The only other thing would be to go a range colder on your spark plugs if you are going to routinely be running higher boost on 93 octane.

This helps prevent knock. Until you turn up the boost to over 10 you needn't worry about a colder plug. More than 24 and you go even colder. It can be trial and error by reading your plugs directly. And contrary to what some say, stick with iridiums unless you are doing a lot of track work and want to change them out all the time. The base aka 'copper', although they are actually nickel, lol plugs are fine if you are a racer and change them all the time but most of the people reading this will not be those people.

You can always look at a couple in front to see how they are doing reading a spark plug reference for you HERE. Somewhere along the line you need to pay attention to your clutch.

The best clutch by far is the OEM kit from Mitsubishi. It lasts the longest and gives the best results. However, if you start approaching and higher your stock clutch will not hold. You will have to go bigger. There is a range of clutches out there and brands. Suffice to say that this guide hasn't the room for a full clutch discussion or review.

For the average performance mod'er SPEC makes a good line up of clutches. If you want a top end clutch that will hold most anything you throw at it and is rebuildable for a low price then the Carbon-Carbon by RPS is the answer.

But initial cost is high. Which is rather stupid, especially if you are running stock turbos. You will actually LOSE performance. But there will always be those that think they can just buy and stick in a FMIC and 'be cool'. Same guys that use fake carbon fiber and vinyl wrap on their car, lol. They are just NOT necessary. Plus you introduce system lag aka - compressor surge which will reduce performance and give you grief like chuff chuff chuffing at cruise levels.

Not every car gets it or in varying degrees but it is present in a twin system so until you get some very large turbos I would advise to not put in a FMIC. Another thing you introduce is blocking your radiator and reducing your cooling system's efficiency. This has to be accounted for or you may begin having overheating issues. Do if your build does not truly need an FMIC then don't put one on.

You are spending money to reduce performance and introduce other problems. Heat soak concerns are something internet racers talk about. Are you really going to be doing back to back drag racing? Probably not! Turbosmart products are all manufactured in-house in our Sydney, Australia Head Office. Nic Cooper. Engineered to Win! Shop Here. Turbosmart Boost Control Range. About Turbosmart. Learn More.

Turbosmart Boost Tee Installation Tutorial. E-Boost2 is a fully featured programmable electronic device. Follow Us On Instagram! That feeling when parts start piling up for the bu. Which generation of Mustang is your favorite? Thoughts on the new GR86? Wishing your family a Merry Christmas and happy ho.

What would you swap this into? Soldering Iron, Solder, maybe some desoldering braid in case you make a mistake. Base Configuration. Ready to tune. This is to prevent damage to your ignition system in case the default settings are not correct for your vehicle.

Either plug a Stimulator Power Supply into the front panel of the box the easiest way , or, start the Jumper Section below, but only connect the power and ground wires to start with.

This is critical! Do not drive an untuned vehicle! This section will cover the standard, basic jumper configuration required to get the vehicle running using your DIYPNP. To bring switched 12V to the ECU you will first need to take control of the main relay. The resulting output from the main relay will then be brought to the ECU by jumping connectorboard C4 to 12V on the main board.

The stepper idle control motor uses 6 wires. There are two 12V power wires and the four coil operation wires. We will be leaving the 12V wires connected for this installation. Stepper circuit output 1B connects to connectorboard terminal B1. Stepper circuit output 2A connects to connectorboard terminal B Whether it be for your street or race application, Turbosmart has a range of boost controllers to help you service your needs.

From our humble beginnings to establishing ourselves as a global brand. Turbosmart is well on track to lead the future in turbo technology. Our engineers, build and track test all products in-house. For this reason, our products are designed to be used on both track and street applications. Boost spiking is defined as a momentary overshoot in boost pressure over the desired boost level. September 19, Products.

Internal Wastegate Setup. Allow the engine to cool down before installing your boost controller. Locate the pressure source port and the wastegate actuator port on the turbocharger assembly. Remove the factory boost control solenoid if fitted from the boost pressure supply port while leaving the solenoid connected to the ECU.

Install your boost controller in the wastegate pressure line with the wastegate arrow pointing towards the wastegate actuator.

If your wastegate actuator has additional ports, these will need to be blocked. Secure all silicone hose ends with hose clamps. Mount your boost controller bracket onto the vehicle, then attach the boost controller onto the bracket with the supplied screws.

Make sure the boost dial is turned completely anti-clockwise before making adjustments.